Coffee from Minas Gerais, sold at an international auction for R$18,000 per sack, is served in a cafeteria in SP – Paladar

Located in Patrocínio (MG), Fazenda Daterra covers 6,200 hectares and half of the property consists of a nature reserve. The other half is made up of coffee plantations, from which around 100,000 bags are harvested each year. Photo: DaTerra

Although Brazil is known as one of the largest producers of Coffee In the world – according to the National Supply Company (CONAB), 47.7 million bags were harvested in 2021 – high-quality coffee does not always end up in Brazilian cups. After all, 72% of Brazil’s production last year was destined for export, and only 18% of the total crop harvested in the country was specialty coffee, according to the Association of the Brazilian Coffee Industry (ABIC).

But that should change, at least symbolically. At the end of last year, the Pato Rei cafeteria, with two units in the capital, São Paulo, participated in an auction of micro lots promoted by the Daterra Farm in the Cerrado of Minas Gerais, outperforming dozens of companies from around the world to win a coveted micro lot, the brand has international recognition. To give you an idea, Swiss barista Emi Fukahori won the 2018 World Brewers Cup with the Frevo Microlot, made by Daterra.

Located in Patrocínio (MG), Fazenda Daterra covers 6,200 hectares and half of the property consists of a nature reserve. The other half is made up of coffee plantations, from which around 100,000 bags are harvested each year.

The kit, which includes the brand's 15 green coffee samples, costs about $269.

The kit, which includes the brand’s 15 green coffee samples, costs about $269. Photo: DaTerra

Of the total production, only 1% comes from micro-lots of varieties not very common on Brazilian soil, a partnership between the brand and the Agronomic Institute of Campinas (IAC). And since these are very limited productions, since 2013 the brand has been selling them through auctions that take place every year.

“It’s a way we found to offer these grains more fairly,” explains Juliana Sorati, marketing consultant at Daterra. But before placing the first bid, it is necessary to purchase a kit with the brand, which includes the 15 green coffee samples divided into small packs of 250 grams each and costs about US$269 (about R$1,320 at the current price ) costs ). .

In addition to the frying instructions, each year the kits have a theme related to Brazilian culture. “It’s a way of taking a bit of our country out into the world,” Juliana comments. Brazilian indigenous astronomy, which consists of a complex astronomical system used by indigenous peoples, served as inspiration for the microlot selection last year. The basis was the research of the astronomer Germano Bruno Afonso, who came to take part in the project but could not see the result – he died in August last year from complications from Covid-19. With that, his son, educator Yuri Berri Afonso, ended the project as a tribute to his father.

Of DaTerra's total production, only 1% comes from micro-lots of varieties uncommon on Brazilian soil.

Of DaTerra’s total production, only 1% comes from micro-lots of varieties uncommon on Brazilian soil. Photo: DaTerra

the coffee is ours

Tiago de Mello, a partner at Café Pato Rei, had been eyeing these microlots for some time. Until last year he plucked up courage and decided to try his luck at the auction. “It has to do with raising a flag and showing that there is actual consumption of this type of coffee in Brazil,” he believes. The online auction, held in October last year, brought together 79 companies from around the world to compete for the 15 micro lots provided by the brand.

Although there are no restrictions on participation in the auction, it is usually roasters, international championship participants and coffee shops from Europe, the United States, Asia and the Middle East who buy these rarer lots. As such, the café’s achievement in São Paulo is relatively unprecedented in Brazil.

Pato Rei won the Yar Ragapaw microlot at $28.10 per pound (1 pound weighs 453g)

Pato Rei won the Yar Ragapaw microlot at $28.10 per pound (1 pound weighs 453g) Photo: Felipe Rau/Estadão

“We know how difficult it is for Brazilian companies to acquire these coffees since they are priced in dollars, but we are very happy to know that the Brazilian public will have the opportunity to taste them,” comments the marketing consultant of daterra.

Pato Rei’s partner bought the microlot Yar Ragapaw, which refers to the constellation of the Canoe, for US$28.10 per pound (1 pound weighs 453g). A total of 24.2 kg of coffee was bought and cost around US$ 1,500 (approx. R$ 7,300 according to the current price).

But the micro lot bought by Pato Rei was not the most expensive at the auction. The Guaxu micro lot, inspired by the constellation of the deer, the Ethiopian gesha variety, with floral notes and a taste of cleric, strawberry and cane, costs about US$ 58.20 per pound and about R$ 40,000 per bag Idea, the average price for a bag of specialty coffee weighing 60 kg is around R$1,100, according to the Brazilian Coffee Industry Association, ABIC – this was bought by roaster Taste Map of Lithuania.

Tiago Mello, owner of Café Pato Rei

Tiago Mello, owner of Café Pato Rei Photo: Felipe Rau/Estadão

The micro solder purchased by Coffeeshop São Paulo at the auction consists of an alloy between two varieties: Laurina and Aramosa. Also known as Bourbon Pointu, Laurina is a rare variety from the Réunion Islands in the Indian Ocean and has hints of yellow fruit. A cross between Arabica and Racemosa, Aramosa has floral aromas and a grape flavor. “These are very small and fragile grains that have lower caffeine content, making them more susceptible to insects and disease. We have been trying to cultivate these varieties for over 20 years and only recently started marketing them,” explains Juliana.

The coffee arrived at Pato Rei late last year, but Mello kept the green beans frozen. “It took me a while to get into the market trying to find the best roaster for coffees as special as this,” says Mello. The result is a coffee that completely dispenses with nut and chocolate notes – a classic among specialty coffees. With a fruity taste reminiscent of apples and green grapes, the coffee has a phosphoric acid “reminiscent of the first sip of Coca-Cola”, defines Pato Rei’s partner. Notes of green grapes, apple and cider can still be felt in the mouth.

Starting this Tuesday (24th), National Coffee Day, the Microlot will celebrate its debut in the two units of the canteen in an experience format.

Starting this Tuesday (24th), National Coffee Day, the Microlot will celebrate its debut in the two units of the canteen in an experience format. Photo: Felipe Rau/Estadão

From this Tuesday (24.) National Coffee Daythe Microlot debuts in the two canteen units in the experience format. In the first, the strainer is extracted with gina (a method consisting of a valve that makes it possible to control the flow of water that runs through the coffee) and served either hot or cold (R$32) – the Both temperatures provide different taste sensations.

With the espresso experience (R$48), the drinks are served neat and with milk. The combination of such a special coffee with milk may seem like heresy at first glance, but it is not a question of conventional milk: in the cafeteria, the milk drink undergoes a cold distillation process that makes it possible to remove the liquids and only the greasy ones Part of the milk that makes the drink super creamy. It will also be possible to take the beans home (R$ 160, 100g). This is a unique opportunity for the coffee freaks on duty who would rarely have access to these cafes.

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king duck

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