Lucas Carton, restaurant-museum like no other

The adopted champenois Paul-François Vranken, producer of white wines with a noble luster, was lucky enough to offer the cuisine of Lucas Carton to the brilliant chef Hugo Bourny for a long-awaited revitalization of this beautiful restaurant: an admirable institution.

Nothing is more difficult for a traditional chef than to bring to life, through the game of casseroles and flavors, a large Parisian table that had its moment of glory in the mid-20th century.and century.

A unique restaurant, three centuries of existence

The official opening of the restaurant dates back to the construction of the building by the architect Charpentier in 1839. But it was in 1860 that its new owner, Mr. Augis, he christened it La Taverne de France, which became a popular spot in Napoleon III’s Paris.

The facade of the Lucas Carton restaurant. | The SundayPhotographer

In 1880, the restaurant was acquired by Mr. Scaliet and renamed Lucas. In 1924 Francis Carton acquired the establishment and placed his name next to that of Lucas, attracting art lovers from all over the world to his home: he then became the illustrious Lucas Carton. It is to him that we owe the creation of the salons on the first floor with private access through the Passage de la Madeleine, then very popular among politicians during the IIIand Republic.

All the woodwork in the restaurant was done by Louis Majorelle and required four years of work. They were carved from maple, sycamore and Ceylon lemon wood, in keeping with the spirit of the times. Since then, they have been included in the inventory of the cultural heritage of historical monuments and are in perfect condition, as are the bronze sculptural sconces with a woman’s face affixed to the walls. For true art lovers, Lucas Carton remains a restaurant like no other.

Tables set at Lucas Carton restaurant. | The SundayPhotographer

Luckily, the restaurant-museum so dear to André Malraux has always been the property of art lovers; the elegant table, of true refinement, continues to be a tribute to beauty and good taste.

Moreover, for decades, Lucas Carton had the best clientele in the capital, that of Maxim’s, La Tour d’Argent, Lapérouse, Grand Véfour, Ledoyen. Francis Carton was a truly cultured and demanding restorer. He himself was not a chef like Louis Vaudable, owner of Maxim’s, long the best restaurant in Paris.

In 1933, the Michelin guide awarded three stars to Lucas Carton, who became one of the first to obtain them in Paris. After 1945, Marc Soustelle gave Lucas Carton his international fame.

In the 1960s, a whole generation of young cooks came to do their apprenticeship, including Alain Senderens, who took over the restaurant from 1985 to 2013.

Noble cuisine continued to play a decisive role in Lucas Carton’s star status. For Gault & Millau, Lucas Carton was the standard bearer of classic and modern cuisine lit by Alain Senderens, creator of the vanilla lobster: a delight that took Lucas Carton to the top in the second half of the 20th century.and century.

The current score by conductor Hugo Bourny

For more than fifteen years, Hugo Bourny has been trained with the best chefs: a remarkable stint with Arnaud Donckele at Vague d’Or, a common love for people and the simplicity of fine products that will give rise to a sincere and sustainable relationship. Then he joined the kitchen of chef Anne-Sophie Pic, and spent almost nine years with the brilliant Valentinoise. There he learns rigor, excellence, the constant search for the quintessence of products.

Hugo Bourny, chef at Lucas Carton restaurant. | BalladStudio

In 2019, he works for another inspiring star: Hélène Darroze. Arriving during the year, he takes special care to accompany the chef and owner of the Jòia and Marsan restaurants in the development of her gastronomic table. The kitchen is crowned with success in 2021 with the achievement of a second star in Paris.

But Hugo Bourny wants a new project. The Vranken family, who own Lucas Carton, know him and the current passes very quickly between them, which will give rise to this new collaboration.

With the best of French terroir, with the complicity of the women and men he works for, the chef at Lucas Carton is constantly looking for balanced deals on the plate.

Hugo Bourny offers a cuisine of emotion, a cuisine of intuition as he likes to say.

His conception of cooking: an adventure between people and products. From there, the recipe will be born, sometimes reflecting the chef’s journey, his history, his roots, sometimes his mood, his terroir, or simply the emotion of a moment.

Bringing a breath of freedom to this sleeping beauty is chef Hugo Bourny’s current project.

Second in value, this great cook with the hands of a magician followed step by step the progress of highly talented chefs, and undertook to rethink Lucas Carton’s fine cuisine, a skillful alliance between tradition and modernity. Lucas Carton is him, his style, purity and generosity: the third star is on the horizon.

Seven great dishes from Chef Bourny and Jordan Talbot, an outstanding pastry chef

Breton shore crab cakealmond velvet with cider, celery and sea urchin garum

At Lucas Carton restaurant, the rack cake. | The SundayPhotographer

Leek from Laurent’s Garden of Val d’Oisefreshly marinated sea bass and nasturtium, sparkling ginger broth

At the Lucas Carton restaurant, leek from Laurent’s Val d’Oise market garden. | The SundayPhotographer

The Brillat Savarin selected by the Alexandre farm in thin ravioli with yellow wine, mushrooms, hazelnuts and Douglas fir

Scallops by Florian and Marie poached in fresh butter, cockles, glasswort and saffron

At the Lucas Carton restaurant, Florian and Marie’s scallops. | The SundayPhotographer

Monkfish from our Gauthier wholesaler marinated in wild garlic then smoked and aged, Chartreuse and white fisherman asparagus

Arnaud Billon beef aged by us rubbed with seaweed and Katsuobushi (dried bonito), béarnaise, salicornia and celery chips

At the Lucas Carton restaurant, Arnaud Billon’s meat. | The SundayPhotographer

The Meyer lemon by Etienne and Perrine Schaeller in marmalade and confit, almond and orange blossom ice cream

At the Lucas Carton restaurant, the Meyer lemon by Étienne and Perrine Schaeller. | The SundayPhotographer

Where

Sudan Rume Cafe by Hippolyte Courty in a crispy thin sheet, textures and Kalamansi ice cream

At the Lucas Carton restaurant, Stéphanie Leveau’s Perche birds. | The SundayPhotographer

And also: Bird Perch by Stéphanie Leveau black garlic, fermented Jerusalem artichoke, garlic flower oil and cardamom, Chocolate Grand Cru by Nicolas Berger from VenezuelaMace infused cream, mint ice cream, cocoa nibs.

At the Lucas Carton restaurant, Nicolas Berger’s grand cru chocolate from Venezuela. | The SundayPhotographer

Menu “Around caviar”

Primitive Baerii caviar and crayfish in thin carpaccio, raw smoked cream, Meyer lemon, Tasmanian pepper leaves

Caviar Prestige Osetra and closet cake

Vintage Baerii Caviar and leek

osetra caviar and meat by Arnaud Billon

Caviar of Baerii origin and coconut, verjuice in sorbet, creamy lemon and oyster leaf

At the Lucas Carton restaurant, Baerii Origin caviar and coconut. | The SundayPhotographer

9 place de la Madeleine 75008 Paris. Tel.: 01 42 65 22 90. Menus at 95 euros for four courses, 135 euros for five courses, 185 euros for seven courses. The entire Caviar menu at 260 euros. Card from 180 to 250 euros. Full at night. Closed Sunday and Monday.

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